In the fifth century BC, the Greek historian Herodotus recorded the emergence of Western curiosity about the origin of spices. However, Arab traders who at that time brokered the spice trade in Europe managed to hide the origins of the spices.
In The Spice Route by Jhon Keay, it is mentioned that when Arabs were asked about the origin of spices, they only answered that cinnamon, one type of spice, came from a bird's nest. It was the birds that brought the pieces of cinnamon and made them part of the nest. Where did the birds find cinnamon? Only the birds know.
The price of spices at that time was so high that every information regarding it had to be kept secret.
In Nusantara where spices were abundant, the Arabs didn't just trade. Those who ran out of provisions then made food according to their taste using the ingredients available in Indonesia. Their foodstuffs, which mainly use meat in large quantities, marry spices such as cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, sesame, and ghee.
This opinion is shared by Andreas Maryoto, a Kompas journalist who wrote the book Jejak Pangan. According to him, the presence of Arabs has greatly influenced the variety of food in Nusantara. “Although it is not easy to prove, the existence of satay, curry, and others may be an example of their influence,” wrote Andreas Maryoto.
Nasi kebuli or fragrant rice with goat meat, martabak, gulai, maraq, and sambosa are among the dishes that are now considered to have Arabic influence.
“The spices used are usually cardamom, cinnamon, olive oil, and sometimes onions,” said culinary expert William Wongso when interviewed by Historia. “But the most used ingredient is goat meat.”
This culinary influence first developed in the coastal cities where the Hadrami (now part of Yemen) people settled. In Sumatra, where the Arabs and Indians first settled, the influence is thought to have reached the cuisine of the Minang people.
“Minang cuisine is not much different from that of the Hadrami people,” Maryoto says. “Rendang, for example. I've tried a similar type of food in the Middle East, there is not much difference in taste, except for the coconut milk because coconut is widely available here.”
This is also the case with various types of gulai (Minangkabau spicy and rich curry) dishes. In fact, in Pekalongan, Ambon, and Ternate, there is a mung bean curry dish. In Pekalongan, for example, porridge, which is usually served sweet, is combined with gulai.
Although it is not easy to prove, the existence of satay, curry, and others may be an example of their (Arab) influence.
The rules of “good and halal” food according to Islamic teachings carried by Arab traders also brought their own color. After all, the role of religion has contributed to limiting the way its believers eat; what is allowed and what is forbidden to eat. Beef or mutton is allowed while foods made from pork are forbidden.
Some cuisines are now ingrained in the local culture. Take nasi kebuli, for example. Nowadays, the rice, which is richly flavored with spices, is not only known as Arab cuisine, but also belongs to the Betawi people.
“When there is a wedding event, the Betawi people will say, 'don't forget to serve nasi kebuli',” said University of Indonesia Professor of Anthropology Yasmin Zaky Shahab when interviewed at her home in Cawang.
According to Yasmin, Arabic cuisine menus are also developing today. “I used to only know nasi kebuli, but now I know nasi rempah (spiced rice) and mandhi rice which I didn't even know before,” she said.
However, tracing the origins of food, let alone categorizing it based on the influence of a community, is no easy task. “If it's Arab, you have to first determine which group of Arab it is from,” Wongso said. “For example, for Hadrami, Yemen, the spices are light, which is different from those from Jordan or other countries.”
According to Wongso, there is actually no such thing as Arabic, Chinese, or other food groups in Indonesia. “Everyone recognizes it as Indonesian food,” he concluded.
